The paper aims to assess the impacts of a dramatic decentralisation reform in Indonesia on access to and quality of primary and secondary education. The research draws on qualitative and quantitative data from interviews, focus group discussions and household surveys in four selected districts. The main conclusions are threefold; the administration of educational services is without transparency and accountability, household expenditures on children's education are high and increasing, and huge social and geographical disparities exist. Policy recommendations include increased government spending to make primary education available to all and improved measures to control public policies and expenditure in this sector. © 2005 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.